We have been boatie’s for a few years now, first as hirers, now more recently as a shared NB, and soon to be the lucky owners of our own (wide) NB… this as a gradual path to live aboard…. can’t wait !!
So.. locks. My lovely wife just won’t steer except on the open wide bits of canals or rivers. So I get to live life in a lock. At first I use to rev the hell out of the engine to keep the boat central in the lock. As I’ve become more experienced I have also got better at managing this and can judge the power much better and it’s all much more relaxed.
Some (far more experienced) friends suggested that when we tackled Tardebigge recently then I should nudge the boat against the front gates in tickover, and then jump off to help open paddles etc etc and then jimp back on as the boat sinks into the lock. I have to say this worked really well and I could manage one lock as wonderful wifey went ahead and prepped the next. Good team work… Happy days!
But it got me thinking… is all this engine stuff really required? As an ex-engineer I hate constantly engaging forward and reverse just to stay still, and it must burn a lot of fuel. I did try to tie up on the centre line once… but it was a bad experience. Once the paddles opened I just couldn’t control the boat properly (62ft).
So I’d love to hear from the more experienced crews on the ‘proper’ way to lock up/down with a limited crew of two… or even one. I really think I should be able to do this on just ropes ?? Soon it will be our engine/prm getting stressed for nothing !!
Happy summer cruising to all….
Paul B said
We have been boatie’s for a few years now, first as hirers, now more recently as a shared NB, and soon to be the lucky owners of our own (wide) NB… this as a gradual path to live aboard…. can’t wait !!
So.. locks. My lovely wife just won’t steer except on the open wide bits of canals or rivers. So I get to live life in a lock. At first I use to rev the hell out of the engine to keep the boat central in the lock. As I’ve become more experienced I have also got better at managing this and can judge the power much better and it’s all much more relaxed.
Some (far more experienced) friends suggested that when we tackled Tardebigge recently then I should nudge the boat against the front gates in tickover, and then jump off to help open paddles etc etc and then jimp back on as the boat sinks into the lock. I have to say this worked really well and I could manage one lock as wonderful wifey went ahead and prepped the next. Good team work… Happy days!
But it got me thinking… is all this engine stuff really required? As an ex-engineer I hate constantly engaging forward and reverse just to stay still, and it must burn a lot of fuel. I did try to tie up on the centre line once… but it was a bad experience. Once the paddles opened I just couldn’t control the boat properly (62ft).
So I’d love to hear from the more experienced crews on the ‘proper’ way to lock up/down with a limited crew of two… or even one. I really think I should be able to do this on just ropes ?? Soon it will be our engine/prm getting stressed for nothing !!
Happy summer cruising to all….
Hi Paul and congratulations on your new boat – or is it not yet a done deal?
I probably have less boating experience than you so not sure I can offer any ‘advice’. No problem on a narrow canal – just leave in tickover, as you say. On a broad canal (and as a single hander) and especially if it is a flight – wait for another boat However, with a widebeam you will not have that problem.
Retired; Somerset/Dorset border when not out and about on Lucy Lowther
Days without name and hours without number
http://thelovelylisanarrowboat.blogspot.co.uk
As both a narrowboat owner (62′) and an employee at a large marina I move many boats on my own through locks. There are a few techniques which will help you but I don’t know how easy they will be with a wide beam.
If I’m going upstream I moor the boat, set the lock then steer the boat into the lock making sure that it has enough impetus to get into the lock before putting it into neutral and taking it out of gear. I time this so that I can then step off the boat on the landing beneath the lock with the centre rope. I then walk up the steps taking the centre rope with me and tie off on a bollard.
I close the gate behind the boat and then open the paddle at the other end, but only half way. The water rushing into the lock hits the far lock wall and then pushes my boat back towards me. If I raise the paddle fully, the force of the water can slam the boat against the near wall. Once the boat is pinned against the wall, I can open the paddle fully.
When leaving the lock, whenever possible, I leave the boat in the mouth of the lock while I step off to close the gate behind me. I can only do this if it’s not too windy.
When going downstream, I steer the boat all the way in and tie up, making sure that there’s enough rope to allow for the fall of the lock but not enough to allow the boat to drift back over the cill marker. When the lock has emptied, I use the ladder to carefully climb down to the boat. I resist the urge to jump onto the boat roof from the side of the lock. The roof can be very slippery. Again, when I come out of the lock I try to leave the boat in the lock mouth before stepping off to close the gate.
The major difference for you is that with a wide beam you’re going to have twice as many gates to open and close (maybe this will encourage your wife to steer the boat into locks to save her having to do all the extra work) and you won’t have as many boaters to help you in the locks because you won’t be sharing the lock with anyone. I hope this helps.
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Hi, I read once of a lone boater stranded in a lock going downstream when the boater he was following kindly opened the paddles and sailed off, there was no ladder in the lock so the lone boater could not get out to open the lower lock gates. He could have been stuck for days in the winter! Perhaps an extending ladder such as sold in Maplins would be an idea if you’ve space to store such a thing… Its amazing what I pick up as a canal boat dreamer…..
Chris
Paul B said
Paul, interesting that you have such good control with just the centre line. Maybe we are being too aggressive with the paddles at first.
Best wishes. PB.
That technique is fine on the Grand Union, especially the bit from Calcutt to Knowle, but many other wide locks need their own way of doing it. I think the worst stretch is the Trent & Mersey from the Trent up to Burton. These locks don’t seem to obey the normal rules and it is a question of gently opening the paddles and closely watching the boat and swop paddles if needed
Living retirement in the slow lane.
20 years hiring, 6 years of shared ownership and a Continuous Cruiser since 2007 but still learning!
Something I was taught recently by monzie, she learnt it on her helmsmans course.
Going up, As per Paul, enough way on to take her into the lock then take the boat right forward to the lock gates using the centre line and secure her to the gates. Open paddles as always gently and keep her forward as the lock fills, the rope is right to hand. It works nicely for me. Only tried it going up, but going down I think it will work as well.
Hi
No such thing as a stupid question ;))
Only need to open one side, if you are a single boat in a double lock (one that can take two boats). Not all locks have two gates, some single locks have one. Depends on how comfortable you feel going in one gate. It is harder work having to open the two but the bigger opening might make you feel a bit more easy taking the boat in or out.
No right or wrong, purely personal and depends how many crew sometimes (single boaters might only want the work of one gate).
The one important thing is to take your time, the other is safety always.
There is nothing in the world as precious as the gift of life itself.
Mexicalialan said
STUPID QUESTION FROM A RANK NEWBEFrom reading these replies, it seems that you, in a narrow boat, only need to open ONE side/gate of the canal lock? Is that right?
Thanks
Hi Alan. No, as Deckhand says, it’s not a stupid question at all. We all have to start somewhere. Actually, I see a large number of new hirers going through the Calcutt flight, the first of very many double width locks on the way to Birmingham, open both gates when they are the only boat in the lock, purely because they don’t know that they can get away with one. Yes, you can open both if you feel more comfortable with a wider gap to aim for, but you are doubling the work you have to do at each lock.
Click here to get a FREE copy of “Living On A Narrowboat:101 Essential Narrowboat Articles”
The weather and the conditions at the lock also come into play. If it is very windy you might want both gates open to make life easier. Likewise if there is a strong stream at the exit such as from the lock bypass or river.
Living retirement in the slow lane.
20 years hiring, 6 years of shared ownership and a Continuous Cruiser since 2007 but still learning!
Quite often the second gate on a wide lock will swing open a tad anyway both on entry and exit with a narrowboat, which defeats the object, but as a single hander I aim to manage with just one gate.
Regarding the advice I have been given on leaving engine at tickover in forward to hold bow against the gate. As a single hander I’m not happy accepting this for several reasons:
Once you step off the boat you are not in control.
The front button may snag on the gate when descending or the front of the bow scrape on the cill if ascending, not to mention having the well deck fill with water if someone is over enthusiastic with the gate paddles.
The boat needs to be backed off the bottom gate to open it which would entail getting back on the boat then off again.
There is also potential for having debris wrapped around the prop, and finally the afore mentioned wear and tear on engine/transmition.
Locks vary enormously in their action on the boat so it’s horses for courses with no specific advice to suit all. Generally within a flight they will perform in a similar manner though. Let the boat decide what it wants to do and control it with a snagging centre line in narrow locks and with double lines in wide ones unless they are benign.
Regards – Richard –
Ecky Thump
I would just add that as you say you are new to all this… if you use one gate and then whack the other through a handling misjudgement, then you run the risk of damaging it or dislodging it. Which will make you very unpopular with CRT and anyone planning to navigate that stretch !
Of course on narrow locks a ‘sleepy’ moment just results a loud bang and you bounce off the lock wall, and maybe spill your tea
PB
Paul B said
I would just add that as you say you are new to all this… if you use one gate and then whack the other through a handling misjudgement, then you run the risk of damaging it or dislodging it. Which will make you very unpopular with CRT and anyone planning to navigate that stretch !Of course on narrow locks a ‘sleepy’ moment just results a loud bang and you bounce off the lock wall, and maybe spill your tea
PB
Fair point but it hasn’t happened in the 1000 or so lock passages I have made. If for no other reason my first priority is to not damage my boat, being mutually beneficial to the lock gates
Regards – Richard –
Ecky Thump
richardhula said
Quite often the second gate on a wide lock will swing open a tad anyway both on entry and exit with a narrowboat, which defeats the object, but as a single hander I aim to manage with just one gate.Regarding the advice I have been given on leaving engine at tickover in forward to hold bow against the gate. As a single hander I’m not happy accepting this for several reasons:
Once you step off the boat you are not in control.
The front button may snag on the gate when descending or the front of the bow scrape on the cill if ascending, not to mention having the well deck fill with water if someone is over enthusiastic with the gate paddles.
The boat needs to be backed off the bottom gate to open it which would entail getting back on the boat then off again.
There is also potential for having debris wrapped around the prop, and finally the afore mentioned wear and tear on engine/transmition.
Locks vary enormously in their action on the boat so it’s horses for courses with no specific advice to suit all. Generally within a flight they will perform in a similar manner though. Let the boat decide what it wants to do and control it with a snagging centre line in narrow locks and with double lines in wide ones unless they are benign.
I only leave boat in forward tickover when in a narrow lock going up – it ain’t going anywhere. Agree you have to keep an eye on the front button in narrow and wide locks but so far I have never snagged in a narrow lock. It also has the advantage of often opening the gates for you! As Richard says you may hit the cill but it often has a wooden board protecting the cill for that reason. In deeper locks you need to be a bit more careful as the button will initially rest against the cill and the boat will go forward when the boat rises above it – in such cases I use the centreline to slow forward momentum.
One gate for broad locks if on my own or with another single hander or (usually) if there is only one crew-member on the other boat, assuming they are happy. First boat in gets bow into corner opposite the open gate and swings over – going out as the second boat I push the stern over to the opposite side, often using the pole. I only ever use a centreline except in large (river) locks – no problem going down and open paddles very slowly to start going up.
Retired; Somerset/Dorset border when not out and about on Lucy Lowther
Days without name and hours without number
http://thelovelylisanarrowboat.blogspot.co.uk
So when single handing going down, is there any way to do it without having to use the lock ladder? Not sure I would be up to doing that.
Not that I’m planning to single hand when we get our narrowboat (or on our current little GRP), but you never know whats going to happen. If my husband was ill/injured then it might be necessary. This does worry me a little.
grannykins said
So when single handing going down, is there any way to do it without having to use the lock ladder? Not sure I would be up to doing that.
Sometimes I use the ladder and sometimes I don’t! It depends on a number of factors, the primary one being whether I think the ladder will be a safe descent. In quite a few locks there is insufficient depth behind the ladder to enable me to place more than just my boot/shoe toe on the rungs and that does not feel safe to me.
Usually I then prefer to use the lines and pull the boat out. Which line you use depends on the circumstances at the lock. For example, if the lock and tail exit are free of obstructions I will use the centre line, as I do for most activity as I am single handing. However there are times when I have to use the back rope as I need to ensure that most of the boat goes through a bridge across the tail of the lock without a towpath. That allows me to stop the boat in the bridgehole, drop the rope on the back deck or roof, make my way around to the other side of the bridge and do whatever I need to get back on board and steer the boat away from the lock.
HTH
Cheers,
John
NB Samsara
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