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Julynian – A Wide Beam Self Fit Out Part 3

Continued from Part 2

It’s now November 06 and having been on the water for 18 months we decide to take the boat out of the canal and place on dry land. This was mainly due to changes and expansion with our business, but gave an opportunity to re Black the hull and finish all the work off with relative ease having a 240 volt supply and old removal van to store tools and equipment in.

Fitting Oak Trim

This was also the ideal time to fit the Oak trim as it needed routering and sanding and could all be done outside on a bench. So every weekend for countless weeks the trim got fitted.

With most the Oak now fitted, we felt the boat lacked colour, just too much wood. So following a visit to a fellow boaters wide beam who had done this to their boat, we decided to do the same. So we painted all the upper linings to brighten things up a bit.

Originally we tried White but thought it a bit stark, so went for this Yellow.

We also ordered the bespoke Oak porthole liners. These are very expensive but worth it IMO They’ve been in over a year now with no cracking or splitting of the oak.

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We used a paint specifically designed for bathrooms so it would cope better with higher levels of moisture.

The next step would be the bedroom.

Bedroom

The bedroom is 7f/t X 10f/t 6” including walkway. We wanted a large bed so used the entire width of the room for the bed. The mattress was made bespoke using memory foam which we find really comfortable. The bed is raised quite high, just below the gunwale. This allowed for plenty of storage space below.

Firstly we shelved under the bed space on the side we can use. We originally were going to fit drawers but then came up with the idea of wicker baskets. They are much easier to rummage through as you just slide them out lift them on the bad and find what you’re looking for. Rather than getting down on your hands and knees.

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Other advantages are being high up you’re likely to be in warmer air in the winter. You can peek out of the porthole without getting out of bed LOL

Having the baskets at the front edge of the bed leaves a bit space behind. Normally a calorifier of waste tank would be put here. However we came up with this solution. Between the bedroom and engine room we planned a small work room to do odd jobs in and to act as a utility room. We constructed a twin trolley that rolls under the bed and rolls out into the work room.

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The first trolley is the smaller the second one is about 4f/t long they total 7f/t in length and can hold a considerable amount of stuff. They are on heavy duty castors which run in a rail made from off cut Oak faced plywood so the trolley always comes out straight. They are now used for tools and equipment.

The room they roll into is the final room to be finished which will be completed this summer. It will have a large sink fitted with some fitted cabinets and worktop space. This will be like the boot room in a farmhouse where you can clean up a bit and kick off the muddy boots before entering the boat. The floor in here will be dark Green rubber and the walls possibly the plastic T&G like in the bathroom. Or possibly more rubber.

During the past 2 years it’s been increasingly difficult to get to the boat, mostly due to business problems more recently caused by recessionary pressures.

However I do take projects home from time to time.

This lamp was an e-bay purchase, good clean up and works fine.

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My brother restored this Klaxon horn for us.

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I quite often bring removable bits back for painting as well.

My most recent repair and fix though was our pigeon hatch. This was originally constructed with a steel strap hinge. This hinge being left and not used for long periods eventually seized up.

My only option was to completely cut this rusty hinge away and replace with something more conducive to long term reliability.

I purchased a new type of power saw just for this purpose called the Startwin. It basically cuts any material using twin blades that rotate in opposite directions at 9oo rpm. Very impressed with how it performed and will be a useful tool in the future.

This is the bit I had to cut away.

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5 f/t long and 4 to 6mm steel to cut through mostly welds.

Once removed I had to clean up the cut edges prime and repaint. The hatch will eventually be dark Green externally, and Cream internally.
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The Stainless Steel hinges are standard door hinges with an 8mm S/S rod running through the row. The rubber pipe over the S/S rod buts up to the 3mm thick rubber under the hinges so pretty water tight anyway. But a ridge cowl also runs along the hinges to shelter from direct rain. There’s also a inner rail below the hinge that traps any water ingress and diverts it on to the roof.

This job was laborious as I had to mark; centre punch; pre drill; then drill and hand tap all 80 holes LOL But pleased with the finished job.

Coming up…

I’m making a determined effort to get the boat finished this summer. Just the back utility room to finish and painting the boat’s exterior.

Some other small projects I will post on soon. These include.

Glass Splash backs to the kitchen worktops, lit by Blue Led strip.

The original time sclae was 2 years. If it wasn’t for my business partner stepping back to run another business it could have been completed pretty much on time, but I had to spend time back here as I have no one to cover for my absence. We’re not too bothered that it’s probably going to be end of this year for completion, as when we can get to the boat it’s an enjoyable task we enjoy anyway. However 2 years was a reasonable time scale for us to set in the first place.

The problem with working weekends and evenings is it’s difficult to get a lot done in short spaces of time. You end up clearing stuff away more often, cleaning up more often. just locking and securing the boat takes time every time you leave it. We found planning the next stage of the job properly so you know you have all the right tools, right equipment and get set up in such a way thay you get a good rhythm goping then you can get on with certain stuff quite quickly. I found the more time we took to plan ahead the easier it became. Some weekends would be used just for measuring up and preparing things for a certain job.

I think you’re right, It’s probably quite rare that any DIY boat project gets finished on time, or as if you say at all. Newbies embarking on self fit out should calculate a reasonable finish time then double it to be on the safe side

Julynian062A much darker Blue than in the illustration will be what’s fitted though.

Refitting of pigeon hatch.

Fitting of under unit kitchen drawer.

Fitting correct chimney pipe.

Fitting Mirror Glass to cratch and side doors inner panels which will be leaded.

Exterior painting starting with a Cream roof.

The original time sclae was 2 years. If it wasn’t for my business partner stepping back to run another business it could have been completed pretty much on time, but I had to spend time back here as I have no one to cover for my absence. We’re not too bothered that it’s probably going to be end of this year for completion, as when we can get to the boat it’s an enjoyable task we enjoy anyway. However 2 years was a reasonable time scale for us to set in the first place.

The problem with working weekends and evenings is it’s difficult to get a lot done in short spaces of time. You end up clearing stuff away more often, cleaning up more often. just locking and securing the boat takes time every time you leave it. We found planning the next stage of the job properly so you know you have all the right tools, right equipment and get set up in such a way thay you get a good rhythm goping then you can get on with certain stuff quite quickly. I found the more time we took to plan ahead the easier it became. Some weekends would be used just for measuring up and preparing things for a certain job.

I think you’re right, It’s probably quite rare that any DIY boat project gets finished on time, or as if you say at all. Newbies embarking on self fit out should calculate a reasonable finish time then double it to be on the safe side.

WOW 16 March 2009 was the last time I posted on here, time fly’s LOL

Well boat still not finished but nearly there. Will definitely be on the water next March. Reasons for delay, a dammned multitude of them. Recession mainly, not so much shortage of money but time as I’ve had to manage my businesses without the staff I used to rely on and simply couldn’t get away. Family bereavements didn’t help either. Anyway back on course but 4 years late in reality LOL

Had to put lots of things right due to the lack of time spent on the boat, shower packed in due to freezing and a split pipe connector in the central heating system took an age to locate and fitted a new chimney to the bubble stove due to bad corrosion.

Managed to get the glass splashbacks fitted and finished, couple of photo’s below but not great quality better ones will follow.

I’m starting on the back cabin this weekend the last cabin to do that will be our utility room come workroom. This will be fitted with dark Green rubber coin dot flooring incorporating floor hatch to access base plate and some useful cool storage, and plain smooth white rubber wall to the stern bulkhead wall. I’m fitting an all in one freestanding stainless steel sink unit, although it’s free standing in this case it will be secured to the rubber bulkhead wall and boxed in at one end to hide the plumbing. The SS unit is 1.4 metres long so a small twin tub washing machine will sit beneath it and other cleaning equipment.

This is the cabin where the underbed trolly rolls into to access it (see back a few pages). Some other

It’s now November 06 and having been on the water for 18 months we decide to take the boat out of the canal and place on dry land. This was mainly due to changes and expansion with our business, but gave an opportunity to re Black the hull and finish all the work off with relative ease having a 240 volt supply and old removal van to store tools and equipment in.

 

The

Fitting of under unit kitchen drawer.

Fitting correct chimney pipe.

Fitting Mirror Glass to cratch and side doors inner panels which will be leaded.

Exterior painting starting with a Cream roof.

 

The original time sclae was 2 years. If it wasn’t for my business partner stepping back to run another business it could have been completed pretty much on time, but I had to spend time back here as I have no one to cover for my absence. We’re not too bothered that it’s probably going to be end of this year for completion, as when we can get to the boat it’s an enjoyable task we enjoy anyway. However 2 years was a reasonable time scale for us to set in the first place.

The problem with working weekends and evenings is it’s difficult to get a lot done in short spaces of time. You end up clearing stuff away more often, cleaning up more often. just locking and securing the boat takes time every time you leave it. We found planning the next stage of the job properly so you know you have all the right tools, right equipment and get set up in such a way thay you get a good rhythm goping then you can get on with certain stuff quite quickly. I found the more time we took to plan ahead the easier it became. Some weekends would be used just for measuring up and preparing things for a certain job.

I think you’re right, It’s probably quite rare that any DIY boat project gets finished on time, or as if you say at all. Newbies embarking on self fit out should calculate a reasonable finish time then double it to be on the safe side.

 

WOW 16 March 2009 was the last time I posted on here, time fly’s LOL

Well boat still not finished but nearly there. Will definitely be on the water next March. Reasons for delay, a dammned multitude of them. Recession mainly, not so much shortage of money but time as I’ve had to manage my businesses without the staff I used to rely on and simply couldn’t get away. Family bereavements didn’t help either. Anyway back on course but 4 years late in reality LOL

Had to put lots of things right due to the lack of time spent on the boat, shower packed in due to freezing and a split pipe connector in the central heating system took an age to locate and fitted a new chimney to the bubble stove due to bad corrosion.

Managed to get the glass splashbacks fitted and finished, couple of photo’s below but not great quality better ones will follow.

Photo’s not available.

I’m starting on the back cabin this weekend the last cabin to do that will be our utility room come workroom. This will be fitted with dark Green rubber coin dot flooring incorporating floor hatch to access base plate and some useful cool storage, and plain smooth white rubber wall to the stern bulkhead wall. I’m fitting an all in one freestanding stainless steel sink unit, although it’s free standing in this case it will be secured to the rubber bulkhead wall and boxed in at one end to hide the plumbing. The SS unit is 1.4 metres long so a small twin tub washing machine will sit beneath it and other cleaning equipment.

This is the cabin where the underbed trolly rolls into to access it (see back a few pages). Some other fitted shelving will be added under the opposite gunwale but other than that will be kept quite minimal. The paneling to the top sides will be gloss painted oak faced ply with natural hard Oak surround. This cabin has only 2 portholes so needs to be light colours.

10mm Rubber flooring will also be bonded to the cratch floor and same at the stern. Smaller jobs to finish are the 2 hardwood kidney shaped stern seats need to be fitted to the stems, front headlights being a pair of francis search lights from a Green goddess fire engine. A stainless steel bracket to the gas locker lid to support a small rotary washing line and sun parasol. Make and fit 2 Oak doors for toilet and utility room, make and fit inside step to cratch.

Once this back cabin and smaller jobs are done, we just need to paint the exterior, shot blast and re-black underneath. I fortunately re primed and blacked the boat about 3 months before we left it mostly unattended in 2010 a so have hardly any rust to contend with anywhere.

I’ll keep updating as we go from here and with plenty of photo’s. Happy days!

We’re off to the boat tomorrow for a long weekend inc Monday and Tuesday. Hopefully we’ll get most of the back cabin finished, will probably need another weekend though to completely finish. After that there’s a few smaller projects to complete.

Fitting of SS bracket pole holder to gas locker lid to accommodate whirlygig and sun umbrella over cratch.

Refit stern sliding hatch which has been lined with rubber and ply.

Fit kidney shaped stern seats.

Fit Green Goddess Francis searchlights headlights.

Fit 1950’s fire engine Lucas searchlight to stern cabin roof.

Fit genuine Klaxon horn.

I’ll also be posting on how we super-insulated our calorifier. And hopefully have some photos of the back cabins coin dot floor with hatch and free standing stainless steel sink unit.

9 more months and we should be afloat.

Long weekend’s proved productive but damned hot.

Managed to get the back cabin (or utility room as we call it) floored in coin dot rubber flooring tiles and finished the inspection hatch. We used 18×18 inch tiles adhered to the ply floor, after I bought these tiles I found you could buy them with a very clever interlocking system which makes them much easier to lay and not necessarily needing to be adhered. Still I stuck (forgive the pun)with what I had and got them used up. You can also get this flooring in sheet form about a metre wide at any length. It’s very hard wearing and grippy to walk on.

The hatch is just 18mm sheet ply edged with Oak raised 3mm to but level against the tiles, and oak the same to the floor edge. Bit of a fiddly job but the hatch is there as an inspection hatch at the lowest part of the stern, but will also be used for storing my beer in the summer and other drinks, it would make for some good cold storage in the winter also should we not run the fridge.

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Still plenty to do in this cabin though, hopefully get the SS free standing sink made up and in place tomorrow, lot’s of other stuff to do also though.

Super insulating our calorifier

Original fitment.

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On our return to refitting the boat last year following a long break in the fitting out process we came across a few problems.
One was the ceramics in the shower had cracked and weren’t replacable so we had to fit a new shower, another was a spit in a
reducing joint in the central heating system which was caused probably by freezing, what with the boat being left unattended.
The heating system wasn’t full so had no antifreeze additive but we think some water was in the system and trapped in this joint
that split as it was low down.

Anyway after a couple of weekends all these problems were put right, then we noticed the water pump coming on
periodically when no water was being used, we eventually found a leak in the verticle calorifier in the joint where the engine hot water enters the calorifier’s heating coil so yet another thing to put right. On inspecting this leak I wasn’t sure weather the joint above wasn’t leaking either so I decided to remove the calorifier and bring it back we me to Dorset so I could repair all the joints and pressure test it in the comfort of our warehouse. It did turned out both joints had been leaking.

Whilst disconnecting the brass connections some insulation was lost around the 4 vertical joints and there was a pretty large crack in the lower part of the insulation from the centre of the calorifier to the base . I refitted all the joints with new fibre washers and some gunky stuff our local heating engineer suggested we use. Had it pressure tested and all ok.

The lost insulation and the crack in it was niggling me and on further inspection realised that in places the insulation thickness was barely an inch anyway so after some thought I decided it wasn’t good enough and decided to double insulate it.

I cut a disc out of 18mm ply wood 40mm wider than the overal diameter of the calorifier, this gave me a 20mm ply overlap all the way around the unit.

The disc on top had to have another large hole drilled in it to eccept the heating element section on top. The very base of the calorifier was partially hollow at it’s base, so i cut another disc of plywood that fitted snugly inside the copper rim at the base, after filling the void with insulation, I then applied some good quality sealant spread all the way around the ply edge and then screwed the copper edge into the edge of the inserted ply , this now gave me a good solid fixing for the bottom outer disc to fit to. This was cut into a circle with a 45mm overlap all the way around the base.

I then cut 8 x 50mm x 25mm battons to the same length which i then fitted equally all the way around the outer edge of the top ring of ply and then butted the batons to the bottom ply disc and screwed up into the long grain from the bottom ring of ply keeping the front face edge of the baton flush with the face edge of the ply ring. The lengths of baton were measured so the top ring of ply was raised an inch above the existing insulation. I then lined and squared it all up and secured it with blobs of sprayfoam squirted periodically around the casing creating a uniform cylindrical skeleton.

When dried I had a nice rigid frame which would give me an extral 45mm or over 1.5 inches of additional foam insulation over doubling the existing application. I then covered the carcase with some 3mm flexible White Polypropelene sheet which I pre cut to size which wrapped around the frame a treat creating a nice solid cylindar. Polypropelene in it’s self also has insulating properties so a good choice for the casing, looks good and brilliant stuff to work with being easily cut with a stanley knife and flexible.

I left the vertical section with the renewed joints still exposed but situated some baton on either side of these joints which the polypropelene edges were finally screwed to. This created a cavety around the existing spray foam of around 40 to 45mm or 1.5 inch this was then filled with fire proof sprayfoam insulation all around the calorifier. I masked off the top heating element with some large plastic pipe so not to clog it with foam. The small drain plug was also masked with some plastic pipe to ensure it’s future accessability.

For the front vertical section left open containing the main joints I masked over and filled with more spray foam. a raised box cover that slots and screws on to the baton surrounding it is currently being finished. so when the calorifier is fitted into the boat and the pipewrok connected, the boxed area has an additional sheet of 2 inch foam cut to fit around the joints.

The same applies with the element on top of the calorifier using a round plastic top cover and some more foam. so now all the joints on the calorifier can be accessable and can be inspected and replaced if necessary. The extended box section will also cover most of the exiting pipework so further insulating. It’s now all fitted in and working, I just need to further insulate the remaining hot water white pipework and finish the cover. The larger ply base also created a much better fixing to the engine room boxed floor than before. So the whole thing is a lot more sturdy.

We tested it overnight after bringing it up to full temperature, then switching off at midnight. On testing in the morning around 9am and we were very pleasantly surprised, the temperature of the water was dramatically hotter than ever before . Prior to this it was bearly luke warm over 8 to 9 hours but since it has been overhauled it’s definitely much hotter and still warm after lunch if not used for a shower. A tank Jacket would probably have been much cheaper alternative although, saying that the main cost was the poly sheet around 20 quid the rest of the materials used were offcuts lying around and the spray foam I had left over from fitting the porthole liners.

I also got hold of some brand new original SS Jubilee clips from good ole E-bay, just brilliant quality compared to the rubbish you can get today wrapped on original Brown grease proof paper and covered with sticky oil. managed to get enough to replace every Jubilee clip on the boat and some spare.

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Overall though I’m very happy with the result and quite pleased at how it looks also.

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To be continued…

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Summary
Julynian
 

Julynian is our 60 f/t x 10/6 Widebeam boat, built by R&D Fabrications and purchased new as a steel shell in 2004 we have completely fitted the boat out ourselves from a steel shell including engine and running gear. We now live aboard full time and enjoying life immensely on the cut.

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